The 26th edition of San Sebastian Gastronomika - Euskadi Basque Country was officially inaugurated today at noon in a packed Kursaal Auditorium. In a ceremony attended by the organisers, institutional representatives, chefs and sponsors, Benjamín Lana, director of the Congress and Vocento Gastronomía, was the first to speak. In his speech, Lana stressed the importance of spreading the values of Donostia's gastronomy throughout the world, but he also referred to the slogan of this new edition, 'Open City'.

He also pointed out that "we are here to gather around the fire, share our knowledge and talk, that other very human activity. Donostia is the cooking city par excellence', but in this edition 'it will also be an open city'. We want to strengthen these two aspects of San Sebastian. We are here to justify our edition of the Chefs' Congress, high-flying and poutine. And we also welcome the tavern keepers, blood brothers and sisters who deserve to be embraced as such'. He also stated that "we open our arms especially to our Portuguese brothers and sisters; this is your home".

A country strategy

It was then the turn of the institutional representatives. Eider Mendoza, Deputy General of Gipuzkoa, explained that "the Congress is a meeting place for people who are going to define a strategy as a country. These meetings are fundamental for a region like Gipuzkoa, where gastronomy is a beacon'.

For Amaia Barredo, the Basque Government's Minister of Food, Rural Development, Agriculture and Fisheries, 'Donostia is the epicentre of international gastronomy and Gastronomika is a reflection of Basque gastronomy, because it brings culture and tradition, but also innovation and products. Our gastronomy is characterised by our chefs and by the quality of the dishes prepared with products from our surroundings. Cuisine and producers must join forces'.

The city's mayor, Eneko Goia, was delighted to see the Kursaal full of culinary stars a week after the film festival: 'We are the Basque capital of gastronomy, and initiatives like this show us to the world. In order to continue to be a world reference, we have to move forward and keep betting, and I think we are doing relatively well'.

Lidia Monteiro, territorial marketing director for Portugal, also took to the stage to express her satisfaction at being able to bring Portuguese gastronomy and chefs to the congress: I'm sure you'll be delighted when you taste what our chefs are doing'.

Three well-deserved awards

After the aurresku and the toast with txakoli, attended by the members of the Advisory Committee and the Founding Committee, this new edition of San Sebastian Gastronomika - Euskadi Basque Country was officially inaugurated.

In the auditorium, there was also time to pay tribute to three professionals who have been recognised for their prolific careers. Pedro Subijana (Akelarre ***, San Sebastian) was one of the main protagonists of this inaugural event, receiving the San Sebastian Gastronomika 2024 Tribute Award. One of the great architects of New Basque Cuisine, the San Sebastian chef has been in the kitchen for more than half a century and has been a speaker at every edition of the congress, of which he is a member of the founding committee.

The chef shared an intimate conversation with Benjamín Lana, in which he admitted that his retirement was far from imminent, recalled how he arrived at Akelarre as an employee, thanked his wife Ada for always being at his side and taking care of the figures, and confirmed his desire to enjoy everything they have done in the first person. The great luxury of my professional life has been Luis Irizar, an exceptional master who has always left his mark on me,' he said, before assuring that, with humility, one can learn from everyone.

This year's Pau Albornà i Torras Gastronomic Journalism Prize went to the American journalist and populariser Lisa Abend. Thank you for this great honour. I can't tell you how proud and happy I am to receive this recognition in the city that taught me the possibilities of gastronomy. The fact that it is a prize created in memory of such a distinguished journalist and dear friend touches me even more,' she said emotionally on stage.

Valladolid oenologist and winemaker Mariano García was awarded the Gueridón de Oro. With a successful career closely linked to Bodegas Mauro, he received the award today from Hilario Arbelaitz, who described him as 'the most important man in the world of wine in Spain'. He is a great friend and a great man.

After embracing the chef in an emotional embrace, García accepted the prize and declared that 'the satisfaction of this award is greater because it is linked to gastronomy, which has made me see wine as something less technical and more hedonistic'. The oenologist recalled his beginnings in Gipuzkoa and his special friendship with Pedro Arregui, Matías Gorrotxategi and Juan Mari Arzak: "The best place for wine to express itself is during a meal and in good company.