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Mugaritz, where creativity has no rules or owners, but dreams do
"More creativity and less nonsense". This is how Andoni Luis Aduriz ended a speech in which he defended the importance of changing the order, acknowledging that good food is not everything at Mugaritz.
Mugaritz, on the other side of the mirror. What is not seen" was the title chosen by Andoni Luis Aduriz (Mugaritz**, Errenteria, Gipuzkoa) for a lecture that, as always, sought to move the audience through reflection.
The talk was a "mix" between the talks he usually gives in cooking and other creative forums. The 'adjacent possible' was one of the first concepts to come to the fore, because 'all the advances are there, because they are all the changes that can happen in time, but not outside of it'. The chef has taken inspiration from one of the first menus at Mugaritz and a more modern one, where starters, meat and fish are not separated and the menu is visualised in a different way.
We don't think so much about good food, but about other kinds of proposals," he explained. He rescued the 'Mugaritz pipe', 'which was not a pipe'. 'We don't have first courses, meats and desserts, we call them 'tributes', 'unusual perspectives' or 'lost endings', and working in this way changes everything', he explained, in a very particular order that some people might understand as a disorder. "In the end, we do different things just because of that order," he continued.
For example, when Mugaritz celebrated its 20th anniversary, they decided to give diners a choice between two menus with different names, one more poetic and the other more literal, but with the same recipes.
Emotion in one, anger in the other
A world of subtleties, of craftsmanship, of goldsmith's art... This is Mugaritz and Andoni Luis Aduriz has explained it with different videos and culinary creations, highlighting, for example, the skin of the octopus head or this proposal that accumulates the last 25 years of Mugaritz, which wants to be a tribute to mothers in the broadest sense, bringing together textures, temperatures and many nuances in a mousseline with latxa sheep's milk, hay and a grain of salt. There were people who cried with emotion, and there were people who wanted to punch us. When you take risks, you realise that these people also help you to understand that we don't see things as they are, but as we are,' concluded the genius from Guipuzcoa.
Aduriz also spoke about Itzgarmu, this end-of-season (and beginning-of-season) event in collaboration with dancer Jon Maia and writer Harkaitz Cano, to take the experience one step further: 'It's a very special action that would be unthinkable in everyday life', he added.
For four years, with the help of the BCBL, 68 boys and girls tried to reveal the recipe for creativity in Mugaritz, and one of the conclusions was that it has no rules or owners, but it has dreams. Perhaps this is why Aduriz left a final proclamation at the end: "More creativity and less nonsense".