Opinion
Gastronomika goes to the heart of San Sebastian
The Congress celebrates a historic dinner at the Gaztelubide Society in the old quarter, where traditional Basque and Portuguese cuisine meet The slogan "Open City" has been chosen by the organisers of San Sebastian Gastronomika - Euskadi Basque Country for this 26th edition of the San Sebastian Gastronomy Congress. And it has been implemented to the letter, with the aim of spreading the climate of innovation, passion and exchange of knowledge that has taken place in the Kursaal to the city and the region.
This desire to involve the capital of Gipuzkoa in what has taken place in the Conference Centre reached its climax on Tuesday evening, with a dinner that was as innovative as it was enriching, at the Gaztelubide Society in the old part. An ideal location for a historic event in which two cuisines, Basque and Portuguese, embraced on this occasion for the enjoyment of more than fifty people gathered in the heart of the city.
It was not a dinner that sought only culinary excellence, which was achieved, but on this occasion the message was more valuable than the content. Getting to know the history of the societies, the influence and importance they have had and continue to have in San Sebastian society, the concept of getting together and socialising around a table and using gastronomy as an excuse... were the main objectives. Gastronomy as an excuse... there were many reasons that deserved to be told and that were more than explained during an evening that aims to become an integral part of the Congress.
The event was hosted by the tireless president of Gaztelubide, José Ramón Mendizabal, Juanma Garmendia and Fernando San Martín, the latter in charge of explanan what a society means to the people of Gipuzkoa and San Sebastian:For us it is a meeting place, a place of friendship. In addition, the societies are very important from a gastronomic point of view, not so much for what is cooked, but for the fact that they take an interest in continuing to cook'. Among the guests were some of the members of the organisation, such as the former director of San Sebastian Gastronomía, Roser Torras, the current deputy director of Vocento Gastronomía, Félix Rivadulla, and the executive chef of Vocento Gastronomía, Jordi Parra, who liaised with the chefs; but there was also room for congress participants, gastronomic journalists and all those who wanted to experience the essence of a company for a day. The challenge, however, was in the kitchen, where Mattin Etxaniz, who defended traditional Basque cuisine with distinction, and Noélia Jerónimo, who did the same with Portuguese cuisine, the guest of honour at this edition of the congress, gave their best.
The aperitif with which the guests were welcomed and which served to contextualise the event had a distinctly Basque flavour. Antxoas en salazón, gildas and txistorra were the three hors d'oeuvres with which those present opened their mouths. There was also an ABBAE olive oil from Hacienda Queiles, which was a real temptation.
The gastronomic "battle" continued with two proposals from the Portuguese chef, who chose a red mullet torricato with red mullet ceviche, a dish that triumphed for its flavour, and a cod xerem with artichokes, olives and cod pilpil. This dish, known as the "poor man's dish", was a hit because of its unmistakable style.
As a counterpoint to these successful proposals, Etxaniz used two classics of traditional Basque cuisine: hake in green sauce with kokotxas and clams, and a spectacular finish with an unmistakable pantxineta.
Everything was washed down with Zapiain Prémium 2023 and Ángeles de Amaren 2019 cider, the perfect complement to a unique experience.